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Also this issue: Fishing Expedition Critics Choice Past, Present, Future Cynics Choice ICE STORM 2002 |
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October 24-30, 2002
cover story
Food and Drink
 Best burger and margarita: White Dog Cafe |
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Best burger
Monk’s and Standard Tap present solid competition, but at White Dog Café you’ll find the most consistently juicy, tasty specimen, without an over-charred exterior — the bane of the best local burgers, which tend to be grilled. And the White Dog’s burgers are always from grass-fed, humanely raised steer and as of recently, always from a local source, proving that back-to-nature food politics and gastronomic pleasure fit together, by definition. To note: No focaccia, no sourdough slices. Good buns are still the best vessel for this American classic, and these burgers are served on a house-made poppy-seed version. The side of chips (potato or corn) is also made on the premises and the pickle is deli-worthy. JC
3420 Sansom St., 215-386-9224
Best margarita
The best margaritas come from non-gimmicky bars that make good mixed drinks, not sports bars, beer establishments or pseudo-Mexican joints. The latter three tend to forgo fresh lime juice for awful sour mixes that are heavy on the sugar syrup. You might even spy your bartender using orange juice instead of orange liqueur. A handful of local places get it right, though. Copa Too’s lime version is still the best all-around value, but White Dog Café has it down to a simple, fine art. The standard there, sparkling with fresh lime juice and just tequila and triple sec, is all you need. The melon collie, with Midori melon liqueur instead of triple sec, is a bright, balanced alternative to the trendy raspberry margarita. The golden retriever, however, is the prize. Featuring Sauza Commemorativo tequila and Gran Torres orange liqueur, it has the bite but goes down silky smooth. JC
3420 Sansom St., 215-386-9224
Most eagerly anticipated opening (with satisfying results)
Mixto
LH
1141 Pine St., 215-592-0363
Most welcome culinary invasion
“South Philly — El Corazón de los Mexicanos” reads the business card for Taqueria La Veracruzana. That might seem a bit hyperbolic — so far as we know, North Philly is in no danger of losing its title as Philadelphia’s Latino Quarter — but the last several months have brought a mouth-watering influx of Mexican cuisine to South Philly, an area better known for red gravy and ph. Blossoming from an unmarked hole in the wall next to a Mexican grocery, La Veracruzana (or, as everyone seems to call it, “the taqueria”) has become a thriving no-fuss eatery with the freshest tacos in town. Its success has spawned a sit-down cousin across the street: Plaza Garibaldi, which moved into the former Saigon without doing much more than draping a few blankets on the wall. The no-frills La Pena still has a ways to go — the food is hit or miss, although the hits are sweet — but considering how long we’ve had to subsist on bar Mex and soggy nachos, there’s still plenty of cause for celebration. SA
Taqueria La Veracruzana, 908 Washington Ave., 215-465-1440
Plaza Garibaldi, 735 Washington Ave., 215-922-2370
La Pena, Ninth and Federal sts.
Most elusive taste treat
Delicious as La Veracruzana’s food can be, their menu is a harsh mistress, and often bears little relation to what’s available on a given night. The cruelest offender in this respect is the chile relleño taco, a succulent, spicy green pepper stuffed with cheese, fried in batter and swathed in two savory tortillas. Although it’s always on the menu, its availability fluctuates seemingly at random — and once you’ve become addicted, every once in a while isn’t enough. We’d tell you it’s one of the best dishes in the city, but then you’d only snap them all up before we get there. One good thing about the chile relleo taco’s mercurial appearances; if it were there all the time, we’d never try anything else. SA
Best tuna melt
Hot tuna may not appeal to everyone, but over at Horn and Hardart Coffee Co., it’s heavenly. Thick slices of bread are toasted (swirly rye is the best), then used to frame cheddar cheese, tuna salad and romaine. The massive sandwich is put on the griddle until the cheese is molten. Served alongside a cup of fresh, crisp coleslaw, it’s a rich, extremely satisfying meal, and a deal at around $5. Rick Staller, the owner of two Horn and Hardart’s franchises in Philadelphia, says a lot of people rave about the tuna salad, but he won’t share specific information about the tuna-to-mayo ratio, or say just how many crunchy nuggets of celery get added to every batch. “I don’t want to give that out. It’s a franchise recipe, and they’d have my head!” AR
1601 Sansom St., 215-988-0800
Best quick sushi
Center City is studded with sushi restaurants, and even several respectable sushi take-out joints. Tokyo Lunchbox is somewhere in between, with lots of ready-made sushi and salads if you want to just grab a dragon roll and go, plenty of comfortable seating and beautiful blonde wood if you want to dine in and relax. Finally, take-out sushi in an elegant setting. The rice soup with fresh vegetables is the best quick lunch deal: $1.99. AR
1705 Chestnut St., 215-564-3306
Best vegetarian sandwich
The three or four great sandwich places within a few blocks of DJs Sandwiches, at D&J; Meats & Deli, have been much praised. But the sandwiches (meat and veggie alike) coming out of the warm, family-run DJ’s are for some reason a well-kept secret. They shouldn’t be. For starters, the vegetarian offerings at Danny and Cindy Carbonaro’s meat store are among the best anywhere — and they’re hot. One isn’t on the menu: Garlicky, bitter broccoli rabe, familiar from the very popular chicken cutlet sandwiches, is divine as the star of its own sandwich, alone or with sharp cheese. The Grilled Veggie, pressed into a neat rectangle with breaded asparagus, sautéed mushrooms, roasted peppers and sharp provolone, is as satisfying as a plate of pasta. Meat eaters, of course, have it made here. Great bread, homemade gravies, attention to detail. The menu says, “All Made with Love!” You’ll believe it. JC
1179 S. 11th St., 215-336-4400
Best salad
The person who decided to put rice in this salad deserves a round of applause. While the focal points of Beau Monde‘s best salad are the seared tuna, shrimp and grilled scallops, it wouldn’t be nearly as delightful were it not for the olives, capers and, of course, rice. It’s all served on a fresh bed of mixed greens in a tangy sherry Caesar dressing, and the result is a salad that actually satisfies as a meal all by itself. At $11.50, it’s a bit pricey for “just” a salad, but it’s worth every penny. Each ingredient has its charm, but it is indeed the sum of its parts that makes this salad the measuring stick for all others. NA
624 S. Sixth St., 215-592-0656
Best running commentary on the trials of eating healthy
Why don’t you carry goat cheese from the Mongolian tundra? What happened to the Dutch chocolate soy cheese babka I bought from the bakery last year? Can you stock that facial cream made from locally grown hemp, the one whose name I forget? The plaintive requests of the patrons of the Fresh Fields Market on South Street are the city’s most amusing reading material. Customer comment cards, and the staff’s endlessly patient (and occasionally sarcastic) replies, are posted on a bulletin board in the front entrance of the store. Judging from this ongoing dialogue, consumers of Whole Foods are picky, picky, picky. Pass the Jamba Juice, please. MB
929 South St., 215-733-9788
Best comfort food
Got a cold, a case of the blues, or a hearty appetite? International Smokeless Barbecues entree-size curry duck vermicelli soup, at around $5, has you covered. We’re talking a spicy, somewhat complex Southeast Asian dish with all the soothing substance required of the best American comfort food. In a (not too) rich broth of smooth coconut milk, lemongrass, crackling red curry and simmered duck, you’ll find rice noodles, wedges of taro root (sometimes potato), and a few pieces of duck on the bone. It’ll clear your nasal passages and warm your heart. But a warning: You may never look at your grandmother’s penicillin the same way again. JC
612 Washington Ave., 215-599-8844
Best late-night mashed potatoes
When you’re stumbling out of The Khyber at 1 a.m. and looking for a bite to eat, La Tazza‘s mashed potatoes never fail to hit the spot. A generous helping served steaming hot achieves the unheard-of textural middle ground between silky and chunky. Add delectable hints of parsley, garlic and butter and you’ve got a mini-meal that goes down easier than just about any soup or sandwich you could imagine. Depending on the crowd on any given night, the potatoes might take a little while to reach you (La Tazza only has a one-man kitchen) but they are well worth the wait. JV
108 Chestnut St., 215-922-7322
Best breakfast meat
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The rasher of Irish bacon at The Plough & the Stars is one of the best smoked meats you will ever taste: at once sweet, salty, smoky and juicy. A delectable way to break the fast. HA
123 Chestnut St., 215-733-0300
Best kid-friendly restaurant (northwest division)
Trolley Car Diner is a natural hit with kids (and their parents), what with its trolley-car theme, yummy milkshakes and service that can deal with screaming hellions. HA
7619 Germantown Ave., 215-753-1500
Best kid-friendly restaurant (south division)
Nifty Fiftys has the hugest plate of fries in town, the widest array of egg creams on the planet, family-friendly prices and tableside jukeboxes. To steal a phrase, it’s a place where a kid can be a kid and nobody freaks. HA
1356 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-408-1950
Best-tasting food that looks and smells awful
So you feel like pizza, but also kind of like barbecue? SoHo Pizza has the thing for you… if you can get past appearances. With rings of barbecue sauce that look suspiciously chocolatey, chunks of chicken and a pungent, cheese-mixed-with-hot-sauce smell, SoHos barbecue chicken pizza is not immediately appetizing. But the taste, oh the taste! Though many on our editorial staff would disagree, to some this is an irresistible treat, from the crunchy, garlicky crust to the finger-lickin’ good sauce. DA
218 Market St., 215-625-3955
Best hand roll in a hurry
It’s hard to pick just one of Serendipity Café‘s highlights. Everything tastes so good, and the airy decor is an improvement over its former incarnation as Shogun. But if you can have only one item, spring for the hand roll. Generously proportioned, with a nuanced flavor and texture, it’s perfect in every way. Best of all, even if you’re pressed for time, the attentive service makes even a quick bite seem like a luxurious meal. The food arrives fast, but it’s so much better than fast food. MJF
1009 Arch St., 215-592-8288
Best use of a deep fryer
It takes a hell of a spring roll to get me to leave my self-contained Center City world to travel across the river to (gasp) Mt. Airy. Those who know go to Goat Hollow for their famous chicken spring rolls, an experience that is well worth the Lincoln Drive trek. The crispy egg-roll style shell contains a kicked-up mix of chicken, black beans and corn, perfectly complemented with a tangy barbecue sauce and cool avocado cream. Skip the meal and order two plates, because they are that good. RF
300 W. Mt. Pleasant Ave., 215-242-4710
Best excuse to switch to a fruit-only diet
For months of the year when soup is largely out of bounds, Race Street Café‘s chilled concoctions made something glamorous of pulped fruit. Whether it was chef Neil Campbell’s chilled cantaloupe, or the thick mango gazpacho, drizzled with raspberry coulis for perfect midsummer tartness, this sort of liquid refreshment ruled the specials board between June and late August. If you didn’t have the pleasure of trying ’em this year, you’ll have to wait till the weather ripens again. JF
208 Race St., 215-627-6181
Best guacamole
El Rey Sol could easily take “best” in lots of categories in this issue (and it has, in the past). But if we have to pick just one thing about the little burrito joint that could, it has to be the guacamole, smooth yet full of chunks of incredibly fresh avocado and tomatoes, not too spicy but with a little kick. When combined with El Rey Sol’s yummy chips, this may be the world’s most perfect appetizer (it’s damn good in a burrito, too). DA
619 South St., 215-629-3786
Best street pretzel
Ana Rodriguez on the northwest corner of Eighth and Market is one of the few lunchcart operators in Center City with the good sense to keep the pretzels warm. Why is this so unusual? As anyone knows who’s tried the fresh-made Amish versions at Reading Terminal, they’re so much better that way. DB
Best fried rice
Even among fans of Pad Thai Shack‘s non-Chinese Asian fare (with a selection including Vietnamese Ca Ri, a savory root vegetable stew), there are those unaware of, or impervious to, this little gem’s non-greasy Thai version of the often tired Chinese takeout classic. It does average $6.50 (depending on the protein garnish), which is steep by fried-rice standards, but it’s worth it. “Shack’s fried rice” is made with a combination of house-doctored soy sauce, sweet chili sauce and nuoc mam (in Thailand, nam pla), the fish-based sauce that’s a staple in Southeast Asian cooking. It still tastes like fried rice, though; it’s just the freshest, richest, most fragrant fried rice you’ll probably ever have. JC
18 S. 20th St., 215-564-1932
Best wings
Wings being the ultimate bar food, we went searching for the best in several Center City bars (albeit bars with extensive menus). Wing gourmands Howard Altman and I could not come to a consensus so we’re calling it a tie, between Moriartys Restaurant and Bar and McGillins Olde Ale House. Regarding the latter, Howard says: “Meaty wing sections, fried to a crispy perfection, slathered in a tangy, vinegary hot sauce.” Me, I still prefer the mongo wings at Moriarty’s. They’re huge — “They must come from pterodactyls,” Howard notes — and the sauce is the best I’ve ever had (and I’ve eaten at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, the Pat’s Steaks of wings). So take your pick. Or do what Howard and I did and walk from one to the other. (On City Paper‘s dime — man, I love my job.) FL
Moriartys, 1116 Walnut St., 215-627-7676
McGillins, 1310 Drury Ln., 215-735-5562
Best inexpensive Italian variety
Somewhere between the brick oven and the greasy thin crust, there’s a middle ground that is expertly trod upon by the folks at Paolo Pizzeria. You can feast on the traditional South Philly-type pie or try one of their more gourmet pizzas — the clam and garlic Bianca is particularly tasty — but the pizza at Paolo is merely the great base upon which rests the balance of their fare. Sandwiches like the chicken da Vinci, with spinach, roasted peppers and mozzarella, calzone with any combination of ingredients you can think of, or standards like cheesesteaks and eggplant parmigiana really satisfy. Even the Middle Eastern offerings are authentic at Paolo — their pita is some of the best in the city. The vegetables and meats are always fresh both in taste and appearance, the bread is perfectly baked, and the place is so inexpensive that you’ll have trouble not filling up on $7. NA
1336 Pine St., 215-545-2482
Best Pacific import
Chef Roy Yamaguchi opened his first restaurant nearly 15 years ago in Honolulu. In the years since, his “Hawaiian-fusion” concept has sparked culinary change — and franchise opportunities — worldwide. Roys Philadelphia opened in late 2001, in the old, high-ceiling Real Estate Trust Company building on 15th and Sansom. Its menu leans heavily on fresh fish, often FedExed from the Hawaiian islands. And why not? For iron-seared mahi-mahi with macadamia lobster sauce, or chiso-crusted ono with poke tomatoes, you can either eat here or board a plane yourself. NC
124-134 S. 15th St., 215-988-1814
Best felafel
Baked, not fried, Bitars little balls of crushed chickpeas are crunchy, tasty and healthy. Not to mention a bargain. HA
947 Federal St., 215-755-1121
Best new dessert
It’s a little strange: ice cream wrapped in a little jelly cover. It’s Japanese. And while it’s sold in grocery stores all over California, you can only get it in one restaurant here in Philly. Anjou makes their own fresh mochi, every day. Stop in for green tea, mango, strawberry or vanilla. Ice cream sandwiches will never seem the same. AR
206 Market St., 215-923-1600
Weirdest addition to South Street, #1
Irish Ice. Is this really necessary? Must we draw even our artificially flavored frozen treats along nationalistic lines? (I’m Irish and proud of it, but still…) Housed in a corner of the Auntie Anne’s pretzel shop and operated by the pretzel twisters, Irish Ice has a scary leprechaun on its sign to underscore its Irishness. The ice itself is creamier than its Italian counterpart (though “not a dairy product”) and lighter than custard (though the “Irish cream” option swirls together custard and the icy stuff). Ethnic ices are showing up elsewhere, too. South Street’s cultural cousin, Wildwood’s boardwalk, features Polish Ice, which claims to have no fat or cholesterol while being chock full of Vitamin C. LH
411 South St., 215-238-0777
Weirdest addition to South Street, #2
Fingers Wings and Other Things recently added Mister Softee to their South Street location. The weird part is, the people who work there seem puzzled if you order it, like it’s against the laws of nature to enter their domain and not eat a finger, or perhaps a wing. But this Other Thing is worth the odd looks, because nothing beats Mister Softee. DA
248 South St., 215-625-9887
Best place to buy curry
1st Oriental Supermarket is a massive Asian grocery store in South Philly with an entire aisle dedicated to curry — red, yellow, green, masaman, panang, you name it. You may have some trouble figuring out which curry is which — most of the products’ names aren’t written in English — so get used to looking at the pictures on the labels. But it’s well worth the trip if you’re looking to save money. The prices at 1st Oriental Supermarket are much lower than what you’re used to spending at the average supermarket. SO
1111 S. Sixth St., 215-271-2521
Best place to buy food for a Shiva
What to bring your family or friends who are sitting Shiva, the seven-day period of intense mourning that begins immediately after a Jewish funeral? Comfort food is always most appreciated. Irenes Bakery & Gourmet has the best selection of kosher Jewish comfort food, including many varieties of kugel (apple raisin, carrot, salt and pepper, mixed vegetable) and knish (potato, spinach, broccoli and mushroom). Other popular items include kasha with bow ties and challah. Irene’s serves up tasty soup, too: chicken noodle, matzo ball, vegetable, split pea and cabbage. And don’t forget the cookies. MP
133 S. 20th St., 215-567-3249
Best place to buy loose tea
Scoring high in aromatic allure — and so providing delayed gratification as well as actual satisfaction — Gourmet of Olde City‘s selection of loose teas is broad and unusual. A stonking English breakfast; European black currant, naturally flavored by extract from the eponymous shrub; a rich, sweet honey and lemon variety; and the impossibly luxurious English rose garden, featuring real rosebuds and chamomile — all offer steamy cups of adventure. These plus many more are available in 4- and 8-ounce pouches — and yes, metal teabags to hold the leaves can be found here, too. JF
26 N. Third St., 215-627-8890
Worst seasonal change
Iced coffee and iced tea are not simply the obligatory summer drinks. For many of us, they are beverages we enjoy throughout the year. So why do some local spots stop serving the stuff once the calendar says it’s fall? The Metropolitan Bakery in Old City was a great source for affordable but still fancy iced coffee and tea (they even had liquid sugar so you could avoid crunchy coffee syndrome). But as of a few weeks ago, the iced options disappeared, hibernating for the winter. So now we’ve got to spend five bucks on an iced drink from Cosi or Starbucks. Feh. DA
Best additions to liquor-buying choices in the city
State stores got ya down? Try these: They’re award-winning small-winery operations, they do tastings, they sell wine by the bottle and, most importantly, they’re open on Sundays. First, there’s Philadelphia Wine Company, on Ninth Street in the Italian Market, which purports to make “a working person’s wine.” They’ve created Port Richmond and Fishtown table reds, and Bridesburg and Wissahickon Valley whites. (What I wanna know is, where’s the Northeast representation, yo? What about a Rising Sun Riesling? A Cheltenham Chardonnay?) Blue Mountain Vineyards, a Lehigh Valley-based vintner, has opened a shop off South Street, and also offers tastings and wine-buying tips from behind their mini-bar. But really, the point is, they’re open on Sundays. Now when you need a last-minute bottle for a dinner party or housewarming, there’s no problem. (And you can even call and have them deliver to your table at area BYOBs.) Take that, blue laws! LH
Philadelphia Wine Co., 940 S. Ninth St., 215-733-0655
Blue Mountain Vineyards, 520 S. Fourth St., 215-923-5029
Best decadent on-the-go dessert option
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Whoever invented Häagen-Dazs’ Mint Chip Dazzler deserves a medal. Mint chocolate chip ice cream, Oreo pieces, hot fudge, whipped cream and a touch of sprinkles make this the choice for a quick indulgence. You can eat it while you’re walking around the city, or take it home so no one can see how quickly you devour it. DA
242 South St., 215-925-3373
3583 Aramingo Ave., 215-289-4750
Best mojitos
Cuba Libre‘s infamous mojitos are limey, minty, refreshing and oh-so-flowery — served on ice mixed with hierba buena (mint leaves) in a tall, Tom Collins-like glass. The authentically Cuban mixed drink consists of rum, freshly squeezed lime juice, a splash of soda and, most distinctively, guarapo — which is raw sugar cane juice that they press on site. Cuba Libre has also introduced the delectable sandito (a watermelon mojito), which, too, has become a huge success. It’s like an alcoholic bouquet in your mouth. SO
10 S. Second St., 215-627-0666
Best bloody mary
Standard Tap knows just how to make you quiver when sipping an alcoholic drink. Their hearty bloody marys are like a meal in a nice-sized glass — spicy, frothy and heartily packed with vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, celery and more. Feel your hangover from the night before lift away as the sting on your tongue jettisons the migraine you came in with. SO
901 N. Second St., 215-238-0630
Unlikeliest trendy export
Overheard at a party in Brooklyn this summer: “Ooh, you brought Yuengling!” Yes, folks, strange as it may seem, Yuengling Lager, everyone’s favorite cheap-ass local brew, is the talk of East Coast cities from New York to Washington. Watch those Williamsburg hipsters bypass the Hefeweizen to plunk down $4 for a mug of ol’ faithful, and consider our good fortune. Yuengling: It’s not just for college students who aren’t quite cheap enough to bring Rolling Rock anymore. SA
Best club to guzzle down Polish beer
One of Philly’s best-kept secrets, Club Maxim, is a swanky, artsy nightclub doused in orange and red. On weekend nights, clubbers — predominantly people of the Polish community — drink and dance to trance and progressive house from the bangin’ sound system. The owners at Club Maxim are also Polish, so in a way it’s for the Polish by the Polish — but anyone and everyone is welcome. The beer selection is not unlike your typical club’s, except for the three or four bottles of beer they offer straight from Poland. I can name them for you, but you’ve probably never heard of them anyway. SO
3583 Aramingo Ave., 215-289-4750
Best old man bar thats resisted gentrification, sort of
Rays Bar is a very old fixture in its South Philly ‘hood — it was established in 1936. When a new crowd moved into the neighborhood more recently (and dubbed the area SoWash, for South of Washington Avenue) they petitioned Ray’s (with the help of Councilman Frank DiCicco) to stop selling 40s. The owner listened. Even before that neighborhood meeting, management hired a bartender from Tattooed Mom’s to come in and bring some new life into the old place. A slightly younger crowd a few days a week equals a newly charged atmosphere, with all of the drinking and cursing, and less of the “when I was your age…” stories. AR
1200 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-365-1169
Most democratic happy hour
It’s the deal that draws you in: $5, all-you-can-drink, 5-7 p.m., Mon.-Thu. But the friendly bartenders, pool tables in the back and surprisingly varied and well-prepared menu at Roosevelts Pub make drinking cheap a lot more than that. Granted, the music is pretty bad and the decor is nonexistent, but the mixed clientele — young professionals, older barflies, Penn and Drexel students and a variety of others — testifies to the charm of this multifarious happy hour. And we won’t even go into the mounted animal on the walls. NA
2222 Walnut St., 215-569-9722
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